Table Traditions

Dinner rituals and classic recipes feed cultural connections during the festive season

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Cellar black glass cup, $10, at area Macy’s stores, macys.com. Juliska black-footed bowl, $150, at The League Shop, Grosse Pointe Farms; 313-882-6880. Clear water/wine glass, $3.95, and Tikoli cotton napkins, $9 each, at Bureau of Urban Living, Detroit; 313-833-9336. Vietri stainless-steel fork, $70/five-piece place setting, and Vietri dinner plate, $35, The Italian Dish, Birmingham; 248-593-8299.

Photograph by Joe vaughn

Kwanzaa

// The American-born holiday of Kwanzaa, which is observed Dec. 26 through Jan. 1, is about reaffirmation. As a local celebrant puts it, “Kwanzaa gives [African-Americans] our unique tradition to follow. We don’t have many unique traditions, so it helps us realize where we have come from, and gives the community a sense of unity.”

Kwanzaa’s seven basic principles celebrate history, tradition, roots, values, unity, faith, self-determination, and the future. Seven candles are lit (three red, three green, and one black — the colors of the Kwanzaa “bendera,” or flag). Each day, the question “habari gani?” (what’s the news?)” is raised. The answer is one of the principles.

As with most cultural celebrations, food plays a symbolic role. Many African-Americans will cook foods that reflect their more recent pasts. Some choose mostly vegetarian fare, which relate to the definition of the word Kwanzaa, which means first fruits of the harvest. Others opt for foods of African origin. The following recipe traces its roots to Ethiopia.

Doro Wat

(Ethiopian Chicken Stew)

2 frying chickens (about 6 pounds
total), each cut into 8 pieces
Juice of 1 lemon or 2 limes
1/2 cup (1 stick) butter
8 cups chopped onion
(about 4 large onions)
2 teaspoons minced garlic
2 tablespoons paprika
2 tablespoons Berbere powder
(recipe below)
1 cup dry red wine
1 cup water
1 teaspoon grated ginger root
Salt and pepper to taste
Hot pepper sauce to taste
8 hard boiled eggs, peeled

Berbere Powder

1 teaspoon red pepper flakes
1/2 teaspoon ground cardamom
1/2 teaspoon fenugreek seeds
1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper
1/2 teaspoon ground ginger
1/2 teaspoon ground cloves
1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric 
1/2 teaspoon ground cayenne
pepper
1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1/4 teaspoon allspice
1 tablespoon paprika
1-1/2 teaspoon salt

Place chicken pieces in a large bowl. Drizzle the lemon or lime juice over the chicken and marinate one or more hours. 

In a large Dutch oven or pot over medium-high heat, cook the onions and garlic in a dry pan, stirring constantly, until they are tender, about 8 minutes. Stir in the butter, paprika, Berbere spice mix, wine, water, and ginger root. Bring to a boil, reduce heat to simmer, and add the chicken pieces, skin side down. Cook, covered, for 30 minutes, turning the chicken once or twice, or until the chicken is tender. Add salt and pepper to taste, and additional hot sauce if desired.

Prick the eggs all over with a fork and add them to the pot. Heat the chicken through and keep warm until ready to serve. Serve with cooked rice, couscous or injera (an Ethiopian flat bread), if desired. Makes 8-10 servings. 

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