Steamed mussels were being served here long before they became a staple on menus across town. And they are still the specialty, along with one that can’t be found as easily: feather bowling. During winter, leagues take up the ancient game, leaving little time for those who simply want to give it a try. This time of year, however, the dirt-and-straw packed lanes are open to all. Players try to get 5-pound balls shaped like cheese wheels as close as possible to a white feather — often sipping Belgian beer between tosses. The adjoining dining room, which is furnished with long tables, an old-fashioned backbar, faded photographs, and press clippings, retains its vintage flavor. 4300 Cadieux, Detroit; 313-882-8560. D daily.