Restaurant veteran Molly Abraham noshes around town, tracking down some top spots
The Peterboro: Hong Kong style pan-fried noodle with yu choy.
Photographs by Joe Vaughn
THE PETERBORO /// A contemporary take on American-Chinese fare gives new life to the cuisine with appealing, robustly spiced dishes meant for sharing. They include a scallop crudo enhanced by a ponzu, bean paste, and sesame sauce; salt and pepper shrimp; and roast pork with honey and hoisin glaze. The setting takes the direction given it by the menu and interprets it in the colorful décor in two rooms offering mostly communal seating with such touches as big red silk Chinese lanterns and a black tin ceiling. The poured cement-topped bar is another attractive element. 420 Peterboro St., Detroit; 313-833-1111. D daily $17
KATOI /// Thai/Laotian fare might seem out of place in Corktown, but the pungent curries and noodle dishes fragrant with bunches of fresh herbs, ginger, and lime are a nice counterpoint to the burgers, ribs, and Italian dishes served in other spots along Michigan Avenue. Virtually everything on the well-edited, a la carte menu is sharable. About half the dishes are spicy. The small cinderblock building is just two rooms: the bar at the entrance and the dining room with a view of the open kitchen. House cocktails follow the menu theme. 2520 Michigan Ave., Detroit; 313 855-2864; D Mon.-Sat. $15
Note: Dollar amount is the average entree price