Restaurant of the Year 2010


Published:

(page 3 of 3)

 

ARTICLE TITLE
Sous vide of New Zealand lamb shank and Parmesan grits with gremolata and sauce.
Photographs by Joe Vaughn

Included in the tapas menu are three chili-lime shrimp on a long platter dressed in a tangy and intense lime butter with aromatic chopped cilantro leaf. The baby tempura lobster with arugula and fennel and Creole mustard is not to be missed, either.

There’s nothing not to like on the menu.

All told, there’s something poetic in the Dirty Dog experience. There’s a feeling of coming full circle in that the music and the food originate with our immigrant grandparents. Whether they came by choice or force, many wore durable work clothes manufactured by the grandfather of the Dirty Dog owner.

Now, those immigrants’ grandchildren sit at the granddaughter’s Dirty Dog Jazz Café, being culturally “clothed” — as Adderley might have explained — by food and music remade by people who learned the rules and how to break them. Detroit full circle — remembered and reinvented. You’ve got to love it.

97 Kercheval, Grosse Pointe Farms; 313-882-5299, dirtydogjazz.com. L & D Tue.-Fri.; D only on Sat.


Cook is the chief restaurant critic for Hour Detroit.

E-mail: editorial@hourdetroit.com.

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