Restaurant of the Year 2011: Iridescence


Published:

(page 4 of 5)

The fifth (dessert) course was one of Pastry Chef Patricia Nash’s creations — among the best anywhere: a moist, luscious pumpkin bread with cinnamon cream, enough by itself. But, surprise, it also comes with a vanilla ice cream “snicker doodle” sandwich. Enough to send you running to Grandma’s bosom.

I cannot say enough about both the flavor and artistry of Nash’s desserts. She’s nearly unmatched among pastry chefs in the metro Detroit restaurant scene. There’s a deftness to Nash’s work that’s marked by restraint in sweetness and a lightness where you might otherwise expect clunk.


Above: Pastry Chef Patricia Nash creating one of her delectable desserts.

In an earlier visit, Nash’s artistry showed in a dessert called the Peanut Butter Bar, a construction of shapes from rounds to rectangles with two columns of caramelized banana rounds stacked three high with a pool of brown caramel sauce on one side and a peanut-butter mousse. Rich, thick, gooey even, but not at all cloying.

One of the signatures, intentional or not, of Iridescence’s dishes appears in the combination-plate servings, which are reminiscent of Tribute and Yagihashi. They can be positively original. One such combo features two versions of foie gras. The first was referred to as a “Reuben,” a half-dollar size bun bearing a piece of pan-seared foie gras with micro greens, some white truffle, and a creamy sauce. The second, “Peanut Butter and Jelly,” had red-fruit preserve and a slice of foie gras “torchon” (pâté, essentially), sprinkled with granular, dehydrated peanut butter.

The hands-down favorite dish across all the visits was one that accompanied a piece of chicken. Served in a little cast-iron kettle, it’s called “lobster mac and cheese” with chunks of fresh lobster blended with a velvety creamed macaroni and a béchamel made with lobster stock, boursin cheese, and Parmesan. It was divine.

The wine list at Iridescence is also worth noting, mostly for reasonable pricing and a large assortment of many North American wines. On the way into the restaurant, check out the amazing wine cellar, a glass-fronted box that rises up into the tall room and uses a series of chain belts with slots for wine bottles, conveying them up and down 40 feet at the press of a button.

  

Edit Module
Edit Module Edit ModuleShow Tags

Archive »Related Content

If You Build It Right, Millions Will Come

How an arms race architect named Dave Dombrowski has taken the Detroit Tigers from helpless to heroic

New Year’s Eve, Brooklyn Style

Tips for celebrating 2019 from the pros at Brooklyn Outdoor

The Makings of the Shinola Hotel

When the Detroit brand’s first foray into hospitality opens its doors, it’ll offer customers a more intimate way to connect with its products and experience the values central to its mission

It’s a #WonderfulLife

Powered by likes and public approval, how social media is squandering the holiday spirit

2018 Candy Cane or Coal?

Santa has been keeping tabs on who’s been naughty and nice over the past year. He’s his jolly old self when awarding candy canes for good deeds but look out — he’s got an icy-cold North Pole attitude when punishing bad behavior.
Edit Module
Edit ModuleShow Tags

Most Popular

  1. The Makings of the Shinola Hotel
    When the Detroit brand’s first foray into hospitality opens its doors, it’ll offer customers...
  2. My Two Christmases
    An Armenian-Iranian, Detroit-based writer reflects on transposing the holiday across continents
  3. New Year’s Eve, Brooklyn Style
    Tips for celebrating 2019 from the pros at Brooklyn Outdoor
  4. Main Review: SheWolf
    Born in Detroit but inspired by Rome, SheWolf takes diners on a culinary journey
  5. The Art of Gifting
    Metro Detroit tastemakers from all walks of life offer a glimpse of what’s on their holiday...
  6. Meet the Makers: Tait Design Co.
    How an after-work hobby ascended to a booming business
  7. Comeback Catering
    Dish, in Detroit, pushes through hard times with consistently delicious food
  8. Precious Metals
    Layering necklaces, stacking rings, and placing bangle upon glitzy bangle: a definitive guide to...
  9. Food Recipe: Braised Beef Brisket
    Chef Aaron Lowen, of Empire Kitchen & Cocktails, shares one of his favorite holiday recipes
  10. An Hour with ... Ricki Friedman
    Founder, Break the Weight