Brian Polcyn’s long-anticipated Birmingham restaurant is a hit, with its completely open kitchen in the center of a 65-seat dining room in the Victor Saroki building that boasts state-of-the-art energy efficiency. Diners, however, are probably more interested in the charcuterie, gourmet pizzas, and individually garnished dishes prepared by a staff headed by David Gilbert, formerly of The Townsend Hotel’s Rugby Grille, and the interestingly varied wine list. 735 Forest, Birmingham; 248-258-9400, theforestgrill.com. $24 H Non-Smoking
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