Molly’s Picks

Restaurant veteran Molly Abraham noshes around town, tracking down some top spots.

by Molly Abraham

Tuna Tartare at Neros Steakhouse in the Casino Windsor.

photographs by joe vaughn

NEROS STEAKHOUSE: A spinoff of the Neros at Caesar’s Palace in Las Vegas, the understated and sophisticated room at the Casino Windsor hotel brings USDA prime dry-aged steaks, outstanding rack of lamb, and upscale service to the south side of the river. The 184-seat setting, complete with a chef’s table in the wine room, is also Windsor’s most expensive, with many entrees in the $40-$65 range. Accompaniments include iced platters heaped with shellfish ($48), and lobster and coconut bisque with crème fraîche ($9), as well as dessert soufflés ($12). The setting of white leather chairs in the central bar, well-spaced tables, and a subtle burgundy-and-brown color scheme in the dining room seems light years away from the jangling slot machines. D Thur.-Mon., 377 Riverside Dr. East, Windsor; 519-258-7878.

DYLAN’S RAW BAR & GRILLE: The space that housed Tom’s Oyster Bar for a couple of decades has been freshened up under a new regime, and a music theme has replaced the former sailing motif. It still has its cozy tavern look and lively bar action, but the menu emphasizes small plates — known as bites — including coconut shrimp with pepper jelly, lump-crab cocktail, oysters Rockefeller, mini-sliders, and pot pie of the day. There are also sturdier entrees, such as grilled lamb chops and baby-back ribs. D daily. 15402 Mack Ave., Grosse Pointe Park; 313-884-6030. $12.