Peterboro, The

A contemporary take on American-Chinese fare gives new life to the cuisine with appealing, robustly spiced dishes. They include a delicate scallop crudo enhanced by a ponzu, bean paste, and sesame sauce; salt and pepper shrimp; and roast pork with honey and hoisin glaze. The setting takes the direction given by the menu and interprets it in the colorful decor in two rooms offering mostly communal seating with such touches as red silk Chinese lanterns under the black tin ceiling. D daily