Spend time perusing the shelves of your local wine shop, and you’re likely to encounter the term “biodynamic.” But what does it mean, and why is the century-old farming philosophy behind it suddenly making a resurgence at vineyards and wine bars around the world?
Biodynamic farming is rooted in the teachings of Austrian philosopher Rudolf Steiner, who first introduced the concept in 1924. Steiner stressed the importance of maintaining ecological harmony and promoting biodiversity. Steeped in esotericism, biodynamic farming revolves around a lunar calendar of fruit, leaf, flower, and root days.
While Steiner was a teetotaler, his philosophy began to make waves in the late 1960s in Alsace, France, as winemakers adopted this holistic approach to farming grapes. Today, many of the tenets of biodynamic farming resonate with younger generations.
“Overall, consumers, particularly younger consumers, are more focused on where what they consume comes from and how it’s produced,” says Michael Schafer, a Detroit Wine Organization board member and sommelier of 15-plus years. “The term ‘organic’ has become much more important for consumers, and I think biodynamics is just a logical extension of that desire to have wines and products produced in a natural, nonartificial way.”
As the demand for more sustainably produced wines grows, so will the demand for places to buy them. With the recent openings of Bar Chenin and Vesper Books and Wine, Detroiters now have easy access to the world of biodynamic wines. Founded by industry veterans and partners Rob Wilson and Symantha Duggan, Vesper Books and Wine opened last December in Detroit’s Core City. Here, guests can enjoy biodynamic wines by the glass or the bottle while browsing a selection of diverse cookbooks curated by Duggan.
With a background in cocktails, Wilson developed a love of natural wine when he was introduced to producers from the Beaujolais region in France. “[It] really got me into the wine we try to serve today — more natural, biodynamic, minimal-intervention wine,” Wilson says. “I felt like this wine just tastes like it has more meaning.”
Choosing to focus on biodynamic wine allows Wilson to work with small producers aligned with the values of Vesper Books and Wine.
“It’s more than just wine,” Wilson says. “It’s the stories of small producers that honestly care about what they’re putting in a bottle … and the ecosystem they make their wine in. That’s something that we care about.”
A few miles away, nestled in the back of The Siren hotel, Bar Chenin is an intimate 10-seat bar centered on intentionality and minimalism. Known for its unique wine offerings, it also serves deli-style sandwiches, sourdough focaccia pizzas, and ice cream made in-house.
In addition to biodynamic wines, owner Nick Arone focuses on sustainably produced natural wines. Like Vesper Books and Wine, Bar Chenin has embraced a thoughtful and holistic approach to winemaking.
“Natural winemakers are people who are really against the grain,” Arone says. “These are people that really want to give you the cleanest, most back-to-earth product. And that’s just something I identify with as far as food and wine, but specifically wine.”
This story originally appeared in the October 2025 issue of Hour Detroit magazine. To read more, pick up a copy of Hour Detroit at a local retail outlet. Click here to get our digital edition.
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