A Conversation With Kate Williams of Lady of the House

We sat down with Kate Williams, owner of Lady of the House, ahead of the restaurants Oct. 23 reopening.
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The interior of Lady of the House. // Photograph by Jacob Lewkow, courtesy of Lady of the House

When Kate Williams opened the Irish-influenced Lady of the House in 2017, it didn’t take long for her and the Corktown restaurant to garner accolades and national attention. The Michigan native — who’d had stints in New York, Chicago, and Copenhagen, Denmark — was commended for her distinctive cooking, butchery, and style; the incorporation of local ingredients; and a no-waste kitchen.

The accolades included two James Beard nods, a rave review from Pete Wells of The New York Times, Lady being listed as one of 2018’s best new restaurants in Esquire and GQ, and Williams being named one of Food & Wine’s best new chefs of 2018.

Despite its critical success, the original Lady was unable to weather the pandemic and closed in 2021. Williams is set to reopen Lady’s doors with a new Grand River Avenue address on Oct. 23, 2024. In addition to housing Lady, the space will also include her catering company, June Rose.

I met with Williams there to hear her approach to Lady this time around.

Why repeat Lady?

Closing after such a short time made it feel unfinished and not fully played out. We still have more of a story to tell. I am so proud of what we did but also know what else we’re capable of. Many staff members came back excited, already knowing our handbook and service style. There are 58 seats, which is perfect for me and lets me cook every night.

Editor’s note: According to a press release Hour Detroit received after this interview, the new space was designed by Williams’ friend and business partner of Honigman Design Studio. Some aspects of the space of note include a checkered file floor, green walls, and “custom banquettes that mix beautiful light green velvet backs with café-leather seats.” 

In addition, the ceiling will be covered in hundreds of dried plants that change quarterly, and the bar features a top made of Cosmopolitan Quartzite with hot pink veining against a cheetah-print barback, making both focal points of the space. 

Why this neighborhood for Lady’s return?

I have a lot of history in this spot. That’s my grandpa’s church right behind us [Redeemer Presbyterian Church, where he attended grade school and high school when it was St. Leo Roman Catholic Church], and my mom brought us there as kids to serve at the soup kitchen. I love the collaborative entrepreneurial community, and we wanted to be more accessible to Detroiters.

Our catering arm, June Rose, opened in 2021. This kitchen is almost as big as the dining room, so there’s room for both.

Was there a lot of pressure when reopening Lady due to its last iteration’s unprecedented success?

We were immediately slammed and got a lot of press in 2018 and 2019. No one prepares you for [that]. But after the worst happens, like closing Lady, I’m humbled in a way that makes me less afraid. We just need to do our jobs and focus on cooking, not outside pressures.

How is the menu structured?

I’m working more closely with our farmers, so it’s seasonal with more focus on vegetables [and] gluten-free and vegan options. There are old favorites, like the pancakes, butter chicken, potato doughnuts, and milk and cookies. Appetizers start at $15, and mains between $35 and $50, except chicken at $75 serving four to six.

Editor’s note: Signature dishes on the menu include Steak Tartare with dijonaisse, crispy potato and caviar, and served with a charred leek top gremolata; Whole Roasted Chicken with maitake and challah migas; and Potato Donut dessert with sugared thyme and chamomile cream sauce.

Lady of the House will also offer a bar program that includes 12 cocktails and half a menu of zero-proof drinks. The cocktails are named after the mothers of each team member and are seasonal, complementing the Lady of the House food menu, according to a press release.

Lady of the House will open at 4884 Grand River Ave., Unit 1C, Detroit on Oct. 23. Call 313-230-4678 or visit ladyofthehousedetroit.com for more information. Reservations can be made on Tock