For nearly 20 years, Forest, formerly Forest Grill, has remained a Birmingham beacon for elevated modern Italian cuisine in a fine-dining setting.
Opened by renowned chef Brian Polcyn in 2008, it quickly catapulted to success: He collected Restaurant of the Year awards from Hour Detroit and the Detroit Free Press and four James Beard nods before selling the restaurant to Chickpea Hospitality in 2015.
The hospitality group positioned chef Nick Janutol, Polcyn’s former executive chef, to take the reins. Under Janutol, the honors continued, with two semifinalist recognitions from the James Beard Foundation and favorable reviews from local critics and national restaurant ranker Zagat.
As Chickpea celebrates 10 years of running Forest, it ushers in a new era with Talia Clark as executive chef and Janutol overseeing Chickpea’s culinary operations, which includes Leila in Detroit as well as Phoenicia and Wilder’s in Birmingham.
Clark previously catered events for the Detroit Institute of Arts and worked at Ochre Bakery, where she led the Detroit eatery to a Bon Appétit best new restaurant designation in 2019. When it closed, she collaborated with fellow bakers on weekly pop-ups in Core City before starting at Phoenicia in 2023. She was recognized quickly for her skills and leadership, and the job led her to the kitchen at Forest.
We spoke with Clark recently about her transition into the new role. After a year of mastering mainstays, she shares her appreciation for the challenge and her excitement about continuing her predecessors’ legacies.
Have you always loved cooking?
No, my parents weren’t big cooks. We lived in a small town with only chain restaurants and didn’t eat out much. My first job was in a kitchen at 18. I worked with foods I’d never seen or tasted before and got really into it. I never knew it was possible to make food taste like that!
Do you feel pressured by Forest’s previous achievements?
Yes, they’re huge shoes to fill, but I’m not trying to be Nick. I’m learning about me and growing under Nick. It’s always been important to me to work with chefs willing to teach and further my education. I’m excited to grow here and see what Forest will become.
What strengths do you bring to the role?
Team leadership and creating a good kitchen culture. I’m proud that my cooks want to work hard and learn from me. It’s the mark of doing a good job and reflects that I’m moving in the right direction as a leader. I want a team who wants to be there for me so I can be there for them.
How has the role changed you?
Although I’ve always had the creative freedom with menus of making what I want, at Forest, I take into account that it’s a technique-driven kitchen, and it’s important I understand everything made in the past. I have more parts to consider beyond creativity, which has changed me a lot. The goal is consistency but to get just a little bit better each time.
This story originally appeared in the June 2025 issue of Hour Detroit magazine. To read more, pick up a copy of Hour Detroit at a local retail outlet. Click here to get our digital edition.
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