Over the last decade or so, Detroit has undergone a culinary revival. It turns out that an excess of abandoned buildings (and their low rents) was the perfect ingredient for urban farming to flourish, and with it, an ever-evolving farm-to-table food scene. Still, there are some dining experiences you just can’t get in a city. Namely, the dreamy escapism of a banquet-style dinner set in the countryside.
Hence the appeal of Farrand Hall. If there ever was a pastoral romance in Michigan, it would likely take place here. This bucolic farm-to-table foodie experience is in small-town Colon (south of Battle Creek), and it entices city dwellers from as far away as Chicago, Detroit, and Ann Arbor. Here, guests can while away the hours at the farm table.
In fact, Farrand Hall has seasonal dinners complete with no fewer than five courses. The entire experience can last as long as two and a half hours, a total that doesn’t include the optional postdinner glass of wine or chats with new friends. Not to be outdone, Saturday dinners tend to boast star chefs (noteworthy for their thriving fan bases) and usually consist of five courses. Though the meals do run long, guests are able to stretch their legs between rounds of scrumptious dishes by exploring the grounds’ flower gardens and saying hello to the cute farm animals.
These dining experiences at Farrand Hall have become so popular that, at the time of this writing, fall 2024 dinners are already selling out. Ironically, though, the founders, owners, and life partners, James Gray and Jacob Hagan, never set out to create a gastronomic getaway.
Rather, the couple first bought the property wanting to turn it into a quiet countryside retreat just for themselves. The pair had been living in Chicago full time and started to feel that their lives were proving too hectic. So they decided on a second home that would enable periodic escapes from city life. It didn’t matter to them that they’d have to restore the house — a project that paid off in more ways than one. (The stunning renovation appears in Cheap Old Houses, a new glossy coffee-table book showcasing success stories of houses shared on the Instagram of the same name.)
Only after living in the home and repeatedly entertaining friends and family did the couple imagine an even grander project for the property: a restaurant. But more than that, they wanted to create a dining experience that would bring people from all walks of life together over good food and easy conversation.
Thus, the dinners take place at long, community-style tables: Gray and Hagan wanted to encourage chatting. “The atmosphere is like being at a wedding with a bunch of strangers but with much better food,” laughs Melissa Kasey, a repeat guest who lives in Detroit, more than 180 miles away. Kasey enjoyed her first experience at Farrand Hall so much that she’s already booked another in August. “The environment is so different — peaceful, calm. It’s an escape from anything that might detract from a good dinner.”
Gray, the CEO of Calibrate Coaching and Consulting, and Hagan, the outreach, engagement, and instruction librarian at Albion College, also wanted a culinary experience that was, above all else, an inviting one. “You get to meet new people in a comfortable and accessible format — even if you’re not a really outgoing person,” Kasey says. At her first dinner, she and her mom sat with a couple from Chicago, among others. “It’s an interesting way of connecting with other people, sharing a great atmosphere over some incredible food.” She’s still in touch with the friends she’s made.
Some guests make the trip out to Farrand Hall to follow their favorite chef. “We’ve been getting Detroit folks for several years now because we showcase Detroit chefs in our dinner series,” Gray explains. Last year, many Detroit visitors came to sample food crafted by Rece Hogerheide from the Detroit Foundation Hotel, Chris Gadulka from Sylvan Table, Michael Barrera from Frame, and Josh Stockton from Madam, just to name a few.
Cooking for smaller gatherings, the chefs can experiment with flavors instead of tailoring their food to have a commercial appeal. “Grey Ghost is one of my favorite restaurants locally, and I heard later that they had been there,” Kasey says. “I would have traveled to see what they created.”
Farrand Hall’s popularity will likely only continue to grow. Just this last year, the team built the Black Barn event space on the property, which has a commercial kitchen and liquor license, making it possible for dinners to become larger and more frequent.
For these reasons and more, Detroit foodies are trekking out to Farrand Hall. “It’s true,” Kasey says. “I will travel for good food.”
This story originally appeared in the August 2024 issue of Hour Detroit magazine. To read more, pick up a copy of Hour Detroit at a local retail outlet. Our digital edition will be available on Aug. 6.
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