Nero’s Steakhouse & Dylan’s Raw Bar & Grille

Restaurant veteran Molly Abraham noshes around town, tracking down some top spots.
Tuna Tartare at Neros Steakhouse in the Casino Windsor. Photograph by Joe Vaughn

NEROS STEAKHOUSE: A spinoff of the Neros at Caesar’s Palace in Las Vegas, the understated and sophisticated room at the Casino Windsor hotel brings USDA prime dry-aged steaks, outstanding rack of lamb, and upscale service to the south side of the river. The 184-seat setting, complete with a chef’s table in the wine room, is also Windsor’s most expensive, with many entrees in the $40-$65 range. Accompaniments include iced platters heaped with shellfish ($48), and lobster and coconut bisque with crème fraîche ($9), as well as dessert soufflés ($12). The setting of white leather chairs in the central bar, well-spaced tables, and a subtle burgundy-and-brown color scheme in the dining room seems light years away from the jangling slot machines. D Thur.-Mon., 377 Riverside Dr. East, Windsor; 519-258-7878.

DYLAN’S RAW BAR & GRILLE: The space that housed Tom’s Oyster Bar for a couple of decades has been freshened up under a new regime, and a music theme has replaced the former sailing motif. It still has its cozy tavern look and lively bar action, but the menu emphasizes small plates — known as bites — including coconut shrimp with pepper jelly, lump-crab cocktail, oysters Rockefeller, mini-sliders, and pot pie of the day. There are also sturdier entrees, such as grilled lamb chops and baby-back ribs. D daily. 15402 Mack Ave., Grosse Pointe Park; 313-884-6030. $12.