Per Bacco and Grape Expectations

Restaurant veteran Molly Abraham noshes around town, tracking down some top spots
Per Bacco and Grape Expectations
Per Bacco’s Tonno Arrabbiata, pan-seared sashimi tuna with mild Cajun spice. Photograph by Joe Vaughn

PER BACCO: Although it certainly offers some Italian classics — from the appetizer of carpaccio with shaved Parmesan and truffle sauce to such housemade pastas as gnocchi with four cheeses — this is not a classic Italian restaurant like those on Windsor’s Erie Street East. The rack of lamb with red wine sauce and porcini mushrooms, and the filet mignon glazed with brandy in green peppercorn sauce have a French sensibility. The highceilinged space is softened by archways, faux stone and wood, and romantic murals of European scenes. Big windows on two sides are left uncovered, and lights are low. L & D Mon.-Fri., D Sat.-Sun. 1199 Ottawa St., Windsor, Ont.; 519- 255-1199. $25 H z

GRAPE EXPECTATIONS: The softly lit room under a two-story ceiling is done in earthy, wine-country colors. The wine stock is set into a handsome wood cabinet on one wall, with granite-topped tables beneath hanging lamps and track lighting on the other. A stairway leads to more secluded seating on the balcony. The wine bar itself punctuates the center of the room. The menu is wine-compatible, with tapas, an assortment of pristinely fresh artisan cheeses, and a notable combination plate of Serrano ham, prosciutto, Spanish chorizo, roasted red peppers, Parmesan and Gouda cheeses, along with olives and crostini. L & D daily. 555 Forest, Plymouth; 734-455-9463. $10 H z