Charlotte: A Regal Visit to the Queen City

In early spring, as I leafed through my newly purchased copy of Eric Wareheim’s Steak House: The People, the Places, the Recipes, I was immediately drawn to the place that inspired the book — Beef ’N’ Bottle in Charlotte, North Carolina. So when I was invited to attend the premiere of Top Chef: Carolinas in Charlotte just a few days later, I was intrigued. Once I learned that two Michigan chefs with backgrounds at one of my favorite metro Detroit seafood spots are competing this season, it was the perfect excuse to check out the city’s burgeoning food and dining scene.

After a short flight, I arrived in Charlotte on a Friday afternoon ready to experience everything the city had to offer. My home for the weekend was the Kimpton Tryon Park Hotel, located near Bank of America Stadium, the home of the Carolina Panthers, in the heart of Uptown.

After settling in, I headed to Stagioni, an Italian restaurant tucked away in a historic Myers Park villa. The executive chef, Brittany Cochran, is a contestant on Season 23 of Top Chef — the sole Charlotte-based competitor. From the counter, I watched Cochran and her team of cooks muscle through a busy Friday service while I enjoyed a plate of mussels and more than one Negroni variation.

Saturday began with brunch at Ever Andalo, a Michelin-recommended spot in the NoDa neighborhood. The wine list is extensive and diverse, with brunch offerings to match. I learned here that oysters are part of a balanced breakfast and pair surprisingly well with the day’s first cup of coffee.

That afternoon, I caught a Charlotte Hornets game, where they faced off against the Portland Trail Blazers on HBCU Day at the Spectrum Center. I found myself half-heartedly rooting for the Hornets, comforted by the knowledge that they pose no threat to the Pistons’ ranking. But it was North Carolina A&T State University’s drumline Cold Steel’s halftime performance that gave me a real reason to cheer.

Following a Hornets win, I ventured to South End, one of the hippest neighborhoods in Charlotte. In a city known for its strong brewery culture, I found a favorite in Wooden Robot Brewery, where the selection of hoppy brews and light lagers provided respite to this weary traveler.

I entered a semi-fasted state on Sunday in preparation for my steakhouse reservation that evening. To take my mind off the gnawing hunger, I found myself back in NoDa, this time with the goal of exploring the neighborhood’s storefronts. There’s no shortage of thrift shops, small boutiques, and bookstores to keep you occupied for an afternoon.

At last, it was time to embark on my maiden voyage to Beef ’N’ Bottle to pay my respects to one of Charlotte’s oldest steakhouses. Its history dates back to 1958, and it has been in its current location for almost 50 years. The unassuming roadhouse-style facade keeps the interior safely guarded from modernity and ensures that only those in search of an authentic experience may enter.

Unlike any restaurant I’ve been to, at Beef ’N’ Bottle, my server was also my bartender, meaning the transition between dirty gin martinis was unencumbered and fluid. You won’t find the words “Wagyu” or “dry aged” anywhere on this menu, but you will discover a collection of old-school cuts, like the underappreciated Kansas City strip.

The shrimp cocktail makes for an ideal appetizer. Six jumbo crustaceans come partially submerged in a horseradish-heavy sauce that will cleanse both your palate and sense of smell.

The 12-ounce ribeye, like all steaks here, is crowned with a singular onion ring, which I recommend dipping in the savory juices.

After finishing the meal with a slice of warm apple pie with cinnamon ice cream, I made sure to get my server/bartender’s autograph on a pack of branded matches to commemorate the evening. I was thrilled to experience this bastion of meat, but the desire to return to my trusted Michigan spots, like Mr. Paul’s and Clawson Steakhouse, was also rejuvenated.

For the trip finale, Monday night’s season premiere of Top Chef took place at the newly reopened Carolina Theatre in downtown Charlotte. Before viewing the first episode, I had the chance to see Jennifer Lee Jackson, one half of the Michigan couple featured this season, walk the red carpet.

While I missed Jackson at the premiere, I had the chance to speak with her and her partner, Justin Tootla, a week later. Tootla, a Michigan native, and Jackson, originally from Georgia, met as students at the Culinary Institute of America nearly 20 years ago and both worked at Voyager in Ferndale. They went on to start their own pop-up restaurant, Bunny Bunny, before eventually setting off for Suttons Bay. Most recently, Tootla has been consulting in Miami for a friend, while Jackson holds down the fort in Suttons Bay. They are the first couple to compete against each other on the show, which posed challenges since they’d spent years cooking side by side.

“This was the first time in a decade that we didn’t have each other to lean on,” Tootla says. “We went into it as competitors, and we wanted to kind of rediscover ourselves.”

Although they couldn’t explore Charlotte and the surrounding area as much as they’d wanted to, the show allowed them to meet local farmers like PuckerButt Farms, the creators of the world’s hottest pepper.

The duo behind the popular pop-up have plans to return to Michigan, with the hope of building a brick-and-mortar restaurant in the future.

“We’re on the look for a permanent space back in Detroit or up north,” Tootla says. “Michigan is always home.”

I felt a similar call home to Michigan on the plane back to Detroit, but my first trip to Charlotte gave me a lot to reflect on. It’s a city rich in history and heritage with the restaurants to match, while also emanating a fresh energy usually found in newly developed cities. Carolina barbecue and Southern-style steakhouses will always have a home here, but so will the next wave of Michelin-starred restaurants and craft cocktails. There’s plenty to enjoy in the Charlotte of today, and I look forward to returning one day soon to experience the Charlotte of tomorrow.