To explore the natural wonders of most U.S. national parks, you need little more than a purchased pass, a map, and some hiking shoes. Isle Royale is not one of those parks. Nestled into the northwest corner of Lake Superior lies one of Michigan’s most wild and remote places. Getting there is no easy task, but I promise, it’s more than worth the effort.
Fifty-six miles of water separate Isle Royale — the least visited national park in the continental U.S. — from Michigan’s mainland. You can only reach the island by ferry, private boat, or seaplane. I recommend taking a seaplane from Houghton County Memorial Airport in the U.P. to Isle Royale’s Rock Harbor. On a clear day, seeing Keweenaw fade away behind you while the 50-mile-long island gradually comes into focus is awe inspiring. (You can also get there from Copper Harbor and Grand Portage, Minnesota.)
On arrival to one of two possible drop-off locations, you’ll quickly notice that Rock Harbor is the most “modern” part of the island. If you’re looking for a leisurely trip, the Rock Harbor Lodge offers a comfortable stay, with plenty of opportunities for shorter day hikes. But if you plan on backpacking through the woods, which I recommend, Rock Harbor is the last spot to grab any remaining supplies for a backcountry adventure. It’s also where you’ll get backpacking permits and submit your itinerary. The weather can change quickly on the island, so it’s a good idea to pack an extra few days’ worth of food, water, and clothes just in case.
For the most thorough tour of Isle Royale, follow the 40-mile Greenstone Ridge Trail from one end of the island to the other and enjoy panoramic views throughout the trek. Don’t forget to take scenic detours, especially at Mount Desor, Isle Royale’s highest peak. First-come-first-served campsites are located along the route for easy access.
During your time on the trail, keep a close eye out for Isle Royale’s apex predator — the timber wolf. It’s widely believed that they first arrived on the island in 1948, crossing an ice bridge from the Canadian mainland. Since then, their numbers have ebbed and flowed along with the population of moose, the island’s largest mammal and a major food source for the wolves. There is no cooler experience than spotting one of these majestic creatures in the wild, but make sure to keep your distance.
If you’re searching for the kind of solitude and wilderness described in Ernest Hemingway’s “Big Two-Hearted River,” you’ll find it at Isle Royale. It’s impossible to encapsulate Michigan’s natural beauty in one place, but this is the closest you’ll get. There’s no wrong way to hike or camp, but my advice to those venturing to Isle Royale is to embrace the lack of cell coverage and worldly distractions. Few places exist where you can shut off the outside world and find peace within yourself amid nature, so just do it. The Ojibwe consider Isle Royale a deeply sacred space for a reason, and after visiting, there’s no doubt you’ll leave with the same belief.
For more information, go to nps.gov/isro.
This story originally appeared in the July 2026 issue of Hour Detroit magazine. To read more, pick up a copy of Hour Detroit at a local retail outlet. Click here to get our digital edition.
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