For decades, the London Chop House stood uncontested as the zenith of fine dining in Detroit. But much like the rest of downtown, it fell on hard times and closed in 1991. That was until 2012, when the Gatzaros family, owners of the Murphy-Telegraph Building, reopened the famed restaurant with RJ Scherer as executive chef.
When Ostrea opened in January 2025, it served as a fresh start, free from the weight of nostalgia. Scherer saw the space as a juxtaposition to the London Chop House and approached the Gatzaros family with a question: “If we do steaks and red wine downstairs, what if we did champagne and oysters upstairs?”
While the restaurant, named for the Latin translation of “oysters,” presents a separate concept from its legendary downstairs neighbor, the level of service and quality remains consistent.
“I didn’t want [Ostrea] to be perceived as a step down or a relaxed version of anything London Chop House does,” Scherer says, adding that the restaurant has “its own standards and has that same kind of feel and hospitality.”
Ostrea’s menu is decidedly seafood-forward, with a special emphasis on oysters. The selection changes daily, but diners can generally expect to choose from three varieties ranging in salinity, minerality, and size, which Scherer recommends mixing and matching.
Don’t be fooled, though — Ostrea still manages to boast a diverse array of land-based fare. Two prime steaks, one of which is dry aged, are available alongside two cuts of Wagyu beef from Rosewood Ranches in Texas. The well-rounded, versatile menu makes Ostrea an ideal option for business dinners, special occasion outings, and after-work drinks — Ostrea’s bar offers one of the city’s most robust happy hours.
Just over a year after its opening, Ostrea gives the impression that it has always been part of the city. From the 9-foot-tall mermaid perched out front to the well-executed steps of service, everything about the space feels timeless. And while it may be tough for lesser restaurants to step out of the shadow of an icon like the London Chop House, Ostrea does so with ease. In many ways, Ostrea represents Detroit today: contemporary and polished, but behind the revitalized façade, the essence of the city’s past is at the forefront.
536 Shelby St., Detroit; 313-403-2111; ostreadetroit.com.
More of Hour Detroit’s Best New Restaurants 2026
Wilder’s in Birmingham
Rose’s in Detroit
The Franklin Oyster Bar and Eatery in Franklin
Little Liberia in Detroit
Best New Bars
Sunda New Asian in Detroit
Medusa in Detroit
Bar Gabi in Hazel Park
This story originally appeared in the August 2026 issue of Hour Detroit magazine. To read more, pick up a copy of Hour Detroit at a local retail outlet. Click here to get our digital edition.
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