As Detroit’s restaurant scene grows, so does its risk of exploitation.
Opportunistic outsiders in the form of real estate developers and restaurant groups cast a menacing shadow over the city like Nosferatu’s bony hand, and trendy, mechanical dining experiences that don’t reflect the needs of the community are more and more commonplace. It all raises a fair question: Who has the right to own and operate a business here? And is there a way for newcomers to join Detroit’s scene altruistically?
Enter the wildly entertaining chef and author Matty Matheson and his collaboration with a cozy, modern cocktail bar that’s been a mainstay in the heart of downtown Detroit, Standby.
When it was announced last summer that Matheson, who became well known for his frantic and boisterous cooking videos, would be partnering with Standby, the city rejoiced.
After all, Matheson is one of the most trusted chefs in North America, having worked his way through kitchens in Toronto before opening his own establishments in Canada — Matty’s Patty’s, Prime Seafood Palace, Cà Phê Rang, and Rizzo’s House of Parm. He plays Neil Fak on FX’s The Bear while also serving as executive producer and culinary consultant on the hit show. In short, Standby was about to get the celebrity chef shine.
The details of how this collaboration came together aren’t all that important, but through a confluence of old friends and a creative pipeline from Toronto and Detroit, Matheson and his team soon found themselves implementing a new menu at one of Detroit’s most beloved bars.
Standby has been around since 2015, and operating partner Joe Robinson has been there for its entirety, bartending for the first three years “seven nights a week, while running operations,” he says. The bar has always served food, yes, but it made a splash for its experimental cocktails, garnering James Beard semifinalist status in both 2017 and 2018. The food has always played second fiddle to the award-winning bar program, and it needed a refresh.
To dial in Standby’s new menu, Matheson and his team held tastings in Toronto at Prime Seafood Palace. Prime’s executive chef also visited Detroit to help train staff, make tweaks, and implement new procedures. Meanwhile, Standby’s newly hired executive chef, Kyle Skotak (previously of Johnny Noodle King), also made regular trips to Toronto. A celebrity chef cash grab this was not — this was a careful collaboration, right down to the comforting, simple menu that’s a revelation in a downtown area that often gets mired in unnecessary opulence.
Robinson describes Standby’s new food as classic and bistro-inspired. “[We] have something for everyone. You don’t see anything super crazy or wild, esoteric ingredients. You see classic dishes or slight variations on classics that are executed really well.”
Executed well indeed. The coconut shrimp is probably the most thoughtful coconut shrimp I’ve ever had, and it’s emblematic of what Matheson does best — classic food given love, attention, and star treatment. Coconut shrimp usually arrive to restaurants premade and frozen in a Sysco cardboard box, but these shrimp are breaded on-site and stunningly plump, golden, and sweet. The side of jerk mayo is filled with warmth, a complex sauce blessed with nearly a dozen different spices that’s the perfect complement to the in-house coconut-kissed shrimp. My recommendation: Have some fun with your dining partner and try to guess all the different flavors.
Keeping in theme with Matheson’s straightforward style of cooking, Standby’s grilled wings are juicy, clean, smoky, and sweet — just quality-sourced chicken cooked well and served with creamy Alabama barbecue sauce and Frank’s RedHot. They’re deceptively delicious. More downtown restaurants should follow Standby’s lead — perfect the art of fried shrimp and humble chicken wings before diving into Australian Wagyu.
Another must-order is the little-gem Caesar, which arrives well dressed, loaded with Parm, and abundant with fresh bacon bits and croutons. It’s a wonderful accompaniment to share with a few appetizers. In fact, my first time visiting Standby, we ordered the shrimp, wings, and aforementioned salad. It was a perfect meal, satisfying in its well-executed simplicity and its dedication to pronounced, understandable flavors.
On another visit, I was gobsmacked by a crispy fried lion’s mane mushroom sandwich. The lion’s mane was delicate, seasoned generously, and fried to perfection. The sandwich held traditional burger toppings like lettuce, tomato, pickles, mayo, and white American cheese. It in no way lacked decadence, making an excellent burger substitute for vegetarians. Of keen interest is that this sandwich is not a Matheson dish but rather an offering from chef Skotak. If the lion’s mane is any indication, Standby’s executive chef seems poised to spread his wings, and diners should benefit.
Over the years, Standby has made waves for its exciting, often-savory cocktail list, and you’ll want to experience the imagination firsthand. The Parmesan Leek Galette, made with gin, vermouth, caramelized leeks, peppercorn, olive bitters, and a cream cheese wash, tastes just like a fresh and flaky pastry you might get from Sister Pie in the early morning. There’s a whole section dedicated to bright and citrusy drinks, titled “Radiant,” and another drink section inspired by places under the subheading “Adventurous.” I recommend trying the Durian, Durian, a fruity drink that’s not too sweet and yet reminds me a lot of the iconically flamboyant Filipino dessert halo-halo.
If there’s any bone to pick with Standby, it’s with some of the entrées. Brick chicken with buttery mashed potatoes is comforting but I fear maybe too heavy and homey for Standby’s already-savory cocktails and exciting late-night vibes. And while steak frites is a classic, its presentation here feels a little disjointed — tenderloin submerged in creamy, peppery au poivre sauce on one plate, then another plate dedicated solely to fries. The serving style is a bit clunky; I much prefer a single dinner plate with sliced steak fanned out on one side and fries stuffed snuggly next to it. The tenderloin, the fries, the sauce — I wish it were all one streamlined experience.
Still, Standby’s new menu gets a lot right. It’s worth a visit, even multiple, but I suggest proverbially dipping your toes into the menu and not diving in headfirst. A couple of riveting cocktails and some shrimp, pork belly, and/or wings won’t set diners back too far, and those are the things I find myself craving most when I’m in the area. The kitchen is open until 11 p.m., making the spot a great late-night hang.
shallots, and herb oil. // Photograph by Rebecca Simonov
“I’ve always seen Standby as an industry spot,” Robinson says. “If you get industry people to fall in love with a space, that’s a good sign.”
Smack-dab in the middle of a downtown area that’s abundant with prime real estate being turned into upscale restaurants, Standby provides a blueprint for both downtown restaurants and interlopers looking to contribute: serve simple, affordable food late at night and make exciting cocktails to go with it. It’s a winning combination, and if more chefs like Matheson want to get involved in Detroit’s future, they should be looking to Standby for how to do it right.
Standby at a Glance
- Price: $$
- Vibe: Hip, lively, late-night, cocktail-focused
- Service: Casual, attentive
- Sound level: Moderate to boisterous
- Dress code: None
- Open: 5 p.m. to 1 a.m. on Wednesday, Thursday, and Sunday; 5 p.m. to 2 a.m. on Friday and Saturday. The kitchen closes at 11 p.m. nightly.
- Reservations: Book on standbydetroit.com or with Resy. Reservations are limited to parties of six or less on weekends, and the bar is first-come, first-served.
- Parking: Free two-hour parking in the Z Lot is available for guests, but only on non-event days.
- Accessibility: Wheelchair accessible.
Standby is located at 225 Gratiot Ave., Detroit. Visit standbydetroit.com for more information.
This story originally appeared in the June 2025 issue of Hour Detroit magazine. To read more, pick up a copy of Hour Detroit at a local retail outlet. Click here to get our digital edition.
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